It’s difficult to articulate what makes Yohji Yamamoto’s clothes so cool. Maybe it’s the way he has ignored Western clothing’s traditional ideas of glamour and its typically accentuated points, creating clothes that are unstructured, relaxed, and durable, with a more abstract relationship to the body. Perhaps it is that the clothes can be both asymmetric and symmetric at the same time, designed to be seen at multiple angles. Or, it may be the layering, draping, and wrapping of the body to the point of androgyny that makes the clothes accessible and wearable. The relaxed fit, drop crotch, and signature black have made Yamamoto the key to being fat in fashion; before Lagerfeld’s ninety-pound weight loss, he was always seen in billowing black Yamamoto rayon. And though there has been a fair share of financial problems, there’s still Yamamoto’s partnership with Adidas, Y-3, to fall back on.
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Dolce & Gabbana’s Mommy-centric show yesterday was a blur of pregnant models, indifferent babies, and jewel-encrusted headphones. But beyond the runway gimmicks, the duo turned out a characteristically solid collection of hyper-embellished, skillfully constructed clothes for sexy Sicilian matriarchs….and those who want to look like them.
D&G emerged from a modest, deconstructed elegance presented in their second-floor studio in the ’80s to become a full-on spectacle of flash, glitz, humor, and fun throughout the ’90s and on. The adorable long-term lovers, Domenico and Stefano, met as youth in 1980 Venice. Known for a certain playful Italian glamour, Domenico’s Sicilian roots emerged in the late 1980s, modernized as multilevel, full, ruffled skirts; tight, tailored shirts; and countless lace shawls and shawl-collar coats worn off the shoulders. In the ’90s, sex took over, resulting in signature rhinestone bodices, sultry ’40s bra tops, bodysuits, thigh highs, and shirts that literally said “SEX”. They became the high-fashion Frederick’s of Hollywood. After that they grew a multiple-personality disorder of sorts, flying with trends so often they nearly lost their identity. Luckily, leopard print, lingerie, and nostalgia have carried the brand to where it is today, HUGE! #VFILESDATA